Tor Des Geants 10th Edition
Magical Mystery Tor taking in the Alta Via 2 then Alta Via 1 routes in the Aosta Valley , Italy encapsulating the Mt Blanc, Gran Paradiso, Monte Rosa and Matterhorn areas.
338km with 30,000m D+/- taking 126hrs58mins
945 Starters (565 finishers and 380DNFs)
The Tor has to be the most rewarding, exciting, fearful, tough, sustained races. For me it was about getting out there and seeing if I was capable of moving this far over the toughest terrain. Not about speed but about endurance seeing if you can keep all your physical and mental faculties in check over a week. Overcoming the lows and riding out those highs to the end.
The landscapes and mountains are what draw me and a big bonus has to be meeting other people. From my weary mind at the pasta party Amy from US and Danny and Martine from Canada and the Americans, Ben from SA, Peter from Denmark, Victor from Kenya, Karen (and Matt and Mark briefly at the start) from UK, KK from USA, Paul from Holland (and his fantastic crew-man Roy) and many others locally and from around the world. Camaraderie at its best.
The volunteers were extra special working hard all week and uplifting us in our times of need. Each Base, CP there was someone to help you, encourage you, console you.. A man specially cooked me potato frites at Olloment when I had had enough (of pasta).. A lady giving me a double expresso at Neil when all hope was lost and this just rejuvenated me. Lots of stories, lots of heart warming amazing volunteers.
Special mention to the 4 medical ladies at Olloment. I was gonna tape my feet again but decided to go to medical and I'm glad I did. At 3am - My treatment was first rate. I was looked after with care, professionalism and smiles. They sent me on my way with my feet in the best possible state (after draining a number of blisters and my huge swollen toe). Grazie ladies.
The locals, the tourists, all cheered and made way, encouraging and willing us on our journey. Each Allez called out brought a smile, a determination, the uplift needed to keep that wrecked body and mind going forward.
Everyone has bought in what the Tor Des Geants means and it certainly feels special when running through the Aosta Valley.
All personal thoughts but might help if anyone doing this in the future - trust me it is well worth doing…..
Acclimatise - main thing for me.. made things hard going all week especially D2 with a 3000m and 3300m mtn climb. So get out earlier and have a restful week in the mountains.
Distance - i never thought of the distance required to go. I went from Life base to life base.. So 50km sections and then I only used my altimeter in between so it was never I have 15km to go to next CP but where was I? At 2300m next CP is 2500 so I have 200m to climb to next CP.. That was all I went with and so distance was never playing on my mind.
Food - my food - i took around a kilo of food from my dropbag at each Lifebase this included and good amount of Tailwind, salt tabs, a few gels x6 (caffeine and normal), a few brekkie bars and a couple of chocolate bars and 2 packs of clif shots. I pretty much had everything except the shot blocs (which have always been my go to pick me up food!!)
Aid Station food was plentiful and good, although could get very similar. With dried meat and cheese and biscuits. The first day or 2 it felt like a scrum to get any food or water/coke and the desire just to move on was high. But with each CP every 3-4 hours you need to stop for something. Finally got into a routine of pasta with oil and cheese, if they had potatoes i’d have these. Last couple of days definitely preferred the vegetarian food to meat option.
Liquids - Coke in the daytime and tea at night. Water and tailwind between CPs.
Sleep - good luck. Think i preferred to have hours of sleep rather than catnaps here and there.
Managed 12-14 hours of interrupted sleep in 7 locations over the 127hrs.
A couple of hours here and there definitely works. Have a plan when getting into a station and do it. I never hallucinated or slept walked. Looking back, timings may have worked out well in that the last 2 life bases we arrived at midnight and after a shower and food had a good 3 hours sleep. Then changing, taping feet and eating again set off in the early hours ready for another day on the trails. These longer sleeps certainly made me up for the next stage. Good mentally being eager to proceed rather than dreading what's to come.
The life bases were all good but if they were busy it felt confusing, rushed. Especially having an overloaded drop bag. Wandering from food hall to showers to beds back to hall was draining. Make sure your drop bag is not overloaded and unless you want to stay 5+hrs I would shower change, eat and move on to sleep elsewhere.
Gear - Took way too much - streamline is key
Pack - Salomon Adv 12 vest 2019 version - loved it, took loads of gear and very comfy.
Shoes - Sportiva Akasha for 4 days and 2 in the middle wore Inov8 Talons.. Both are very good. Grip secure on the steep descents and feet in pretty good condition.. One stubbed big toe and a few heel blisters.
Dry bag in pack- 1x long sleeve top, warm top, waterproof top and bottoms, spare socks and buff.
Wore 2 pairs of socks.. Inner were toe socks and I rubbed my feet with sudocream. I think my main blisters came from poor taping of heels so in future either get medical to tape or do it better.
A good change of Clothes at each life base.
Main things I didn't get out of the drop bag...
3 long sleeves tops, 3 long compression pants, shorts!! Spare gloves, hat and buffs.
These would depend on weather as if it was colder/wetter then I may have used them. But I stayed in my shorts and same calf guards all week.
Drugs - Felt pretty good for most of the route. Probably had an extra 10 caffeine tablets throughout the week just when I needed a pick me up. But maybe not required.
Had around 10 paracetamol for the week. Most towards the end when my feet were ‘burning’ and knees screaming so it just took the edge off for a bit. But there is enough accent to recover on. So just look after and listen to your body.
Training - its all personal and down to your experience. You’ll never feel you’ve done enough so just have a plan and don't overtrain. For me it was long days out, especially in the mountains. In the run up it was just small easy runs during the week. On the weekends I went hiking for 3 days, managed a coastal 40miler and then went to North Wales for 3 long days in the mountains. Then took it easy 3 weeks before race day.
Sunday prize giving - seemed a waste of time. You can't see much, they go on for hours and you are on your feet and then you finally get a cheap cotton finishers t-shirt. Spend the day doing something much more rewarding in the mountains or save a day and go home.
Highs and Lows
Definitely have to manage yourself through the lows as there's always a high just around the corner. I reckon I had 3 low points and only the 1st that made me doubt that I could finish as the distance just felt too big.
1st Low was i expect the altitude with a little too much sun. I had no acclimatization, I had arrived the day before and by the 2nd day had done 6 mtn passes (2500, 2800, 2800, 2800, 3000 and 3300m). The 2 last ones were extremely slow going and the sun with the snow zapped all my energy. When i got into Cogne I had a shower and went straight to bed. But all I did was spend 2hrs shivering with all my clothes and duvet jacket on! This did finally pass and so I decided to stay and get an additional 2hrs sleep/rest in. After this I got up, ate well and had a strong section all the way up and down to Donnas. Never quit on a bad day.
2nd low. Coming into Neil I was mentally exhausted. Just spent 7hrs on the roughest terrain with Karen who felt rough for the most part. Coming into Neil I just needed to switch off - luckily found a spare bed and slept for 2 hrs. The reset worked and I felt pretty good from there on in.
3rd low. Just before the finish - typical.. Paul had been having issues with his legs for a few hours and unsure if it was the slow down or just my muscles starting to give up but my thigh quad muscle above the knee just gave up and was very painful. So just as Paul felt like running again I couldn't!! Iced it at Bertone and just hobbled, ran, skipped our way to the finish.
Highs - We did it. What an adventure, the mountains, the trails, the scenery, the forests, the smells, the people, the sunsets, the sunrises, the nighttime, the wildlife, the inner desire, the emotions, the overcoming. Absolutely loved it.
Race Report
The volunteers were extra special working hard all week and uplifting us in our times of need. Each Base, CP there was someone to help you, encourage you, console you.. A man specially cooked me potato frites at Olloment when I had had enough (of pasta).. A lady giving me a double expresso at Neil when all hope was lost and this just rejuvenated me. Lots of stories, lots of heart warming amazing volunteers.
Special mention to the 4 medical ladies at Olloment. I was gonna tape my feet again but decided to go to medical and I'm glad I did. At 3am - My treatment was first rate. I was looked after with care, professionalism and smiles. They sent me on my way with my feet in the best possible state (after draining a number of blisters and my huge swollen toe). Grazie ladies.
The locals, the tourists, all cheered and made way, encouraging and willing us on our journey. Each Allez called out brought a smile, a determination, the uplift needed to keep that wrecked body and mind going forward.
Everyone has bought in what the Tor Des Geants means and it certainly feels special when running through the Aosta Valley.
All personal thoughts but might help if anyone doing this in the future - trust me it is well worth doing…..
Acclimatise - main thing for me.. made things hard going all week especially D2 with a 3000m and 3300m mtn climb. So get out earlier and have a restful week in the mountains.
Distance - i never thought of the distance required to go. I went from Life base to life base.. So 50km sections and then I only used my altimeter in between so it was never I have 15km to go to next CP but where was I? At 2300m next CP is 2500 so I have 200m to climb to next CP.. That was all I went with and so distance was never playing on my mind.
Food - my food - i took around a kilo of food from my dropbag at each Lifebase this included and good amount of Tailwind, salt tabs, a few gels x6 (caffeine and normal), a few brekkie bars and a couple of chocolate bars and 2 packs of clif shots. I pretty much had everything except the shot blocs (which have always been my go to pick me up food!!)
Aid Station food was plentiful and good, although could get very similar. With dried meat and cheese and biscuits. The first day or 2 it felt like a scrum to get any food or water/coke and the desire just to move on was high. But with each CP every 3-4 hours you need to stop for something. Finally got into a routine of pasta with oil and cheese, if they had potatoes i’d have these. Last couple of days definitely preferred the vegetarian food to meat option.
Liquids - Coke in the daytime and tea at night. Water and tailwind between CPs.
Sleep - good luck. Think i preferred to have hours of sleep rather than catnaps here and there.
Managed 12-14 hours of interrupted sleep in 7 locations over the 127hrs.
A couple of hours here and there definitely works. Have a plan when getting into a station and do it. I never hallucinated or slept walked. Looking back, timings may have worked out well in that the last 2 life bases we arrived at midnight and after a shower and food had a good 3 hours sleep. Then changing, taping feet and eating again set off in the early hours ready for another day on the trails. These longer sleeps certainly made me up for the next stage. Good mentally being eager to proceed rather than dreading what's to come.
The life bases were all good but if they were busy it felt confusing, rushed. Especially having an overloaded drop bag. Wandering from food hall to showers to beds back to hall was draining. Make sure your drop bag is not overloaded and unless you want to stay 5+hrs I would shower change, eat and move on to sleep elsewhere.
Gear - Took way too much - streamline is key
Pack - Salomon Adv 12 vest 2019 version - loved it, took loads of gear and very comfy.
Shoes - Sportiva Akasha for 4 days and 2 in the middle wore Inov8 Talons.. Both are very good. Grip secure on the steep descents and feet in pretty good condition.. One stubbed big toe and a few heel blisters.
Dry bag in pack- 1x long sleeve top, warm top, waterproof top and bottoms, spare socks and buff.
Wore 2 pairs of socks.. Inner were toe socks and I rubbed my feet with sudocream. I think my main blisters came from poor taping of heels so in future either get medical to tape or do it better.
A good change of Clothes at each life base.
Main things I didn't get out of the drop bag...
3 long sleeves tops, 3 long compression pants, shorts!! Spare gloves, hat and buffs.
These would depend on weather as if it was colder/wetter then I may have used them. But I stayed in my shorts and same calf guards all week.
Drugs - Felt pretty good for most of the route. Probably had an extra 10 caffeine tablets throughout the week just when I needed a pick me up. But maybe not required.
Had around 10 paracetamol for the week. Most towards the end when my feet were ‘burning’ and knees screaming so it just took the edge off for a bit. But there is enough accent to recover on. So just look after and listen to your body.
Training - its all personal and down to your experience. You’ll never feel you’ve done enough so just have a plan and don't overtrain. For me it was long days out, especially in the mountains. In the run up it was just small easy runs during the week. On the weekends I went hiking for 3 days, managed a coastal 40miler and then went to North Wales for 3 long days in the mountains. Then took it easy 3 weeks before race day.
Sunday prize giving - seemed a waste of time. You can't see much, they go on for hours and you are on your feet and then you finally get a cheap cotton finishers t-shirt. Spend the day doing something much more rewarding in the mountains or save a day and go home.
Highs and Lows
Definitely have to manage yourself through the lows as there's always a high just around the corner. I reckon I had 3 low points and only the 1st that made me doubt that I could finish as the distance just felt too big.
1st Low was i expect the altitude with a little too much sun. I had no acclimatization, I had arrived the day before and by the 2nd day had done 6 mtn passes (2500, 2800, 2800, 2800, 3000 and 3300m). The 2 last ones were extremely slow going and the sun with the snow zapped all my energy. When i got into Cogne I had a shower and went straight to bed. But all I did was spend 2hrs shivering with all my clothes and duvet jacket on! This did finally pass and so I decided to stay and get an additional 2hrs sleep/rest in. After this I got up, ate well and had a strong section all the way up and down to Donnas. Never quit on a bad day.
2nd low. Coming into Neil I was mentally exhausted. Just spent 7hrs on the roughest terrain with Karen who felt rough for the most part. Coming into Neil I just needed to switch off - luckily found a spare bed and slept for 2 hrs. The reset worked and I felt pretty good from there on in.
3rd low. Just before the finish - typical.. Paul had been having issues with his legs for a few hours and unsure if it was the slow down or just my muscles starting to give up but my thigh quad muscle above the knee just gave up and was very painful. So just as Paul felt like running again I couldn't!! Iced it at Bertone and just hobbled, ran, skipped our way to the finish.
Highs - We did it. What an adventure, the mountains, the trails, the scenery, the forests, the smells, the people, the sunsets, the sunrises, the nighttime, the wildlife, the inner desire, the emotions, the overcoming. Absolutely loved it.
Race Report
Start Courmayer - 12pm - 50k to LB1
CPs on route were all chaoticly busy. A right scrum to get food and water.
Beautiful climb upto to a couple of cols - this set route standard was through alpine meadows then over boulder fields to moonscape landscapes up to the Col to drop down and repeat backyards.
LB1 - Valgrisenche (50km/12hrs) - still feeling good but fancied a rest and luckily got a top bunk bed for an hours rest - 30mins sleep. This place was busy and hot.
Had way too much in my drop bag so took an age to sort and re-pack!! Streamline - take less shit and pack bits in smaller tubes/cartons so it does not become a complete mess.
2hrs in LB with 30mins sleep.
Stage 2 - 58km to Cogne LB2
CPs on route - thinning out a little nice to spend a little more time in the bigger ones to eat proper food.
Not much to note overnight but going good and steady.. Steep descent down Col Finestra as it got lighter there was a steep up Col Entrelor. Felt so cold and it took forever for the sun to appear. Another long descent and a 2nd hard long climb up to 3300m just about doable with the snow on the track. Met Victor from Kenya here good chat on the steady descent to Cogne.
LB2 - Cogne (108km/31hrs) - see 1st Low.
Took a busy shower, found a bunk then spent 2hrs trying to sleep - shivering etc - then did finally sleep for 2hrs sleep. But the sleep did the trick and I felt half human. Had some food, chicken and potatoes and set off in the early hours.
5hrs30 (2hrs sleep) in LB. This was a busy, dark noisy sports hall to sleep/rest in. I had nothing in the tank so had no choice but I wouldn't stay again.
Stage 3 - 46km to Donnas LB3
CPs on route - all good from memory. Great support overnight.
Took a busy shower, found a bunk then spent 2hrs trying to sleep - shivering etc - then did finally sleep for 2hrs sleep. But the sleep did the trick and I felt half human. Had some food, chicken and potatoes and set off in the early hours.
5hrs30 (2hrs sleep) in LB. This was a busy, dark noisy sports hall to sleep/rest in. I had nothing in the tank so had no choice but I wouldn't stay again.
Stage 3 - 46km to Donnas LB3
CPs on route - all good from memory. Great support overnight.
Felt tired but chatted with an Italian man for a couple of hours and felt better, locals even had an espresso tent to help us on our nightward journey. Attach yourself to someone if you're feeling low. Not everyone wants company but it’s worth testing the waters with fellow runners.
Took a wrong turn overnight, luckily I was switched on and managed to navigate my way back on course. Felt strong on the whole descent, a never ending 30km descent down to Donnas. As it got light and grey, we criss crossed a bunch of wobbly bridges on our way into Bard and got confused thinking this was the lifebase.. Luckily another runner told me to keep going.
LB3 - Donnas (153km/46hrs) - it only being mid-morning and feeling good I decided to push on (once they finally found my drop bag) without resting (ate and sorted feet out) deciding to sleep when it got dark.
No sleep, just over 1 hour in base. Too quick to notice anything but seemed ok. Chatted to Karen who I'd met at the start line and decided to run the next section together.
Stage 4 - 53km to Gressoney, LB4.
CPs on route were all good but definitely try sleeping at Ref Barma - looked a sweet spot.
Leaving the lowest elevation we worked our way up and down out of the valley. Started to rain and once at Sassa CP the rain got heavy. Luckily there were 2 spaces in a small tent so we slept/rested for 2 hrs. Still raining we trudged our way up to Coda..
HALFWAY - 55hrs 170km.
Got dark on the next section but again looked like a place to visit Balma felt in an amazing location. Just a quick turnaround here.. Next section Karen was nasusus and unsteady on her feet which was very unnerving over the technical terrain.
Leaving the lowest elevation we worked our way up and down out of the valley. Started to rain and once at Sassa CP the rain got heavy. Luckily there were 2 spaces in a small tent so we slept/rested for 2 hrs. Still raining we trudged our way up to Coda..
HALFWAY - 55hrs 170km.
Got dark on the next section but again looked like a place to visit Balma felt in an amazing location. Just a quick turnaround here.. Next section Karen was nasusus and unsteady on her feet which was very unnerving over the technical terrain.
At the next CP - Lago Chiro. I forced some food down Karen and she immediately threw it back up. So with her having a tough time we managed to get a couple of bunks in the portable cabin. Not much sleep, 1hr, as it had a heater fan inside and the noisy generator was right outside. But we did feel a little refreshed. I felt good for a couple of hours but the final descent into Neil I think I just tipped and when I got to Niel I was mentally spent.. I had little thought for Karen which I regret as there was only one bed available.. When she declined the offer instead of insisting she take it I had it. After the rest in the tepee, some polenta and a lifesaving espresso I set off as the day was breaking..
(Note, after a rest Karen hooked up with friends and pushed on and finished the Tor strongly - superb effort). The long ascent up and the sun rising allowed my body and mind to switch from being wrecked to everything sweetly clicking again. Alle Alle, never quit on a bad day.
Descent into Gressoney was good fun, maybe too much as nearing the bottom I just kept going and going and then realised I was off track and had to bushwhack my way back across and up to the main path over a large boulder field..hard work especially in the midday sun. Back on course I made my way to town.
LB4 - Gressoney (212km/71hrs) - Again it was mid morning and feeling good i just decided to shower, eat and tape feet and change clothes. I fancied a massage but the wait was too long.
2hrs in LB - Good base - Large sports hall, Sleeping room looked quiet and comfy.
Stage 5 - 50km to Valtorneche LB5
CPs on route - good routine by now.. Dry pasta with oil and cheese, some fruit and fill up liquids and go.
Walking up the valley I had a good chat with Paul from Holland. Nothing felt rushed, and the body felt great. On hitting the steep slope i said goodbye to Paul as i wanted to really go slow in the heat of the day.
He did start off fast but then we kept yoyo-ing up to the Col and on the descent we enjoyed running down and by Champoluc had joined forces and were happy to stick together for the rest of the race. A great pairing as i felt happy to be together chatting but also to have some space and have your own time with your own thoughts in the mountains but had company there if needed. Felt like we understood each other.A nice climb out of Champoluc valley, i had only skied here in the winter, with a lovely sunset over the Monta Rosa. Up into the darkness and the never ending, confusing mountain paths culminating in a mighty descent to Valtourneche.. My feet, knees ... everything was burning in pain by the bottom.
LB5 - Valtourneche (240km/84hrs) - Relaxed with a beer from Roy (Pauls Crew - excellent to have around, a good laugh and kept us smiling), had some food, then showered and slept for 3hrs. Need to remember that taping feet and eating can take over an hour. More food and go.
5hrs30 in base. 3hrs sleep. Best one for me, lots of room. Timed it right in getting in at midnight and then leaving at dawn.
Stage 6 - 50km to Ollamont, LB5.
CPs on route - all good but feeling longer to get to especially in the heat of the day.
Both Paul and me were on similar timelines so not too much hanging around for the other.
Refreshed and eager to get on with it. Got to a massive reservoir dam as daylight broke and got wonderful views up the valley to the Matterhorn.
Nice high undulating traversing and then a great descent to Magiu refuge. Where treat of treats of an ice cream in the midday sun. The ascent to the next station was hot and tough.. We soaked ourselves in the cold streams all the way up.
Last descent into Oyace was amazing. Looking down the valley was awe inspiring and to look up we could see the Mont Blanc massif for the first time in days. It was a long tough descent. Paul was starting to struggle with his blisters but we were in no rush and stopped to re tape etc and also relax and enjoy what we could. Don’t rush this race.
Got into Oyace late afternoon.. An ice cream and food later it was decision time to either rest or go for the next section. We did the right thing in carrying on. We felt okish and moving okish but we were treated to a beautiful sunset and full moon over the alps at the col.. The descent into Ollomont was one of the worst. Hard steep zig zags for an eternal age and then another neverending traverse on stoney tracks. By the bottom the feet and knees were done. In town we met a jubilant Roy who cheered us up and treated us to a beer.
LB6 - Ollamont (288km/106hrs) - I didn't like this base. Everything was in tents and felt cold. The sleeping room was crowded and noisy. Showers were horrible. But managed 2 to 3 hrs sleep and then rather than taping my feet I saw the medical team who looked after me in the best possible way. At 3am 4 lovely ladies took over and cleaned, lanced my blisters and dressed my heels.. My big toe was the size of a plum and I was eager not to have it looked at but they insisted and some painful minutes later they had reduced it and dressed it.. It was a good call from them. Grazie Ladies.
5hrs30 in LB - timings worked as in it was night time but I feel next time keep going to the next lovely Mtn Hut for a couple of hours quieter rest.
Stage 7 - 50km to Courmayeur, Finish.
CPs to end - all good with great volunteers. Got real hot hiking up to Malatra. Felt great but had my 3rd low.
The trek up was an easy steady plod then came one memorable moment. The sun rose alighting the entire alps and we gazed for an age as Mt Blanc just illuminated in the morning sun. Precious awe inspiring situation.
A cold descent down to a shack for a fun filled brekkie and then a long runnable section to Rhemy. Here we met Darren doing the Tor des Glaciers (only 450km WTF).
Then our final climb - Malatre - Get here, get it done. And we were doing it in the full heat of the daytime sun. We ducked our heads in every stream, waterbuck, puddle going and even took a 15min solace under a parked van halfway up the mountain.We were surprised by Roy at the welcoming refuge before Malatre and even better a present once atop of Malatre - a cold beer.
Once this was downed it was pretty much 20k downhill. I enjoyed this section with many emotions of being a Geant, finishing a race thought impossible not that long ago. There was also a sadness this adventure was coming to an end. After 5 days in the mountains to finish suddenly felt wrong but that's racing you have to finish.
Moving along in a happy trance in the afternoon sun, I hit my 3rd low. My calf and then my thigh muscles began to protest, maybe with the thought of ending but right then the finish felt a long way away. At the last refuge I taped up my thigh and calf with ice and bit my teeth and headed out with Paul supporting me. Coming into town it eased enough to allow us to run through town with the massive crowds cheering us on.
A wonderful finish in under 127hrs.
A truly amazing mountain adventure. Nothing else has come close.
A few beers at the finish and a quick shower and change we were out that evening - i had honestly thought i’d be out running for another 20hrs!! So a great time all the more reason to celebrate some more. Maybe too much as i got back to my hotel it was shut and so i slept for a while on the bench outside.. I didn't mind, I felt content and could sleep anywhere.
Courmayeur 338km 126hr58m 30,000m D+/-
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