Ecrins from Andy Humphrey on Vimeo.
Showing posts with label climbing. Show all posts
Showing posts with label climbing. Show all posts
Thursday, 17 September 2015
Tuesday, 14 August 2012
54321 Running, climbing and Wild camping
Before Ultra
With the weather being too good to rest. We decided last minute to head down swanage on the friday to do a little sport climbing in Hedbury quarry. A couple of good climbs later we settled down to camp for the night. This being a quarry and on a sea cliff, wood was in short supply so a search around on the nearby hills brought us a bounty of dry rotten wood.
We started a BBQ and made a firepit and a few beers later we were enjoying mint burgers, sausages and ribs washed down with some fine beers and wine. The night was a beautiful clear starry night and I tried in vain to get some good exposure shots of the Milky Way but, instead had to be content with shots of us messing around with firewood etc which came out surprisingly well.
Apart from the wind picking up strongly during the night I slept well and after a quick clear up we wondered over to the other side of the quarry to do a couple more climbs. These I found hard work, maybe a little too much wine last night. So instead of pushing on and doing more climbs we decided to call it a day and rest up before tomorrow.
Ultra Day
This would be my second ultra race. A 50Km run in and around Salisbury, superbly organised by the Fire Service with a 54321 theme. 5 Rivers, 4 Hills, 3 Country estates, 2 Castles, 1 Cathedral. After the usual flaffing before the race the 50k runners headed out at 9am approx 120 of us. The turnout was good for all the different events to day had to offer (5, 10, 20, 30, 40 and 50k races). One issue I guess that most trail races with good turnouts have is at the start everyone has to go down the same paths and through the same gates. This made slow going for the first half hour. But I was in no hurry as my plan was to do this within 5.5hrs so there was plenty of time left in the day to stretch them legs.
Not long into the race we had a strong downpour most welcomed as it cooled us down on this hot and humid day. We all started to spread out so the barefoot (sandles) runner I was chatting to sprinted ahead but i decided to keep to an easy pace and just let the day unfold. A castle and a river passed I soon saw a unique sight in a camel grazing in a field. What things you see when out running. After running the outskirts of Old Sarum Fort we took to the outer limits of the town and onto the Claradon Way but soon peeled off and headed south to track down more rivers and hills.
The middle section of the run was a pretty pleasant experience. My body felt good and strong. I carried plenty of water and food plus we had the added bonus of aid stations pretty much every 5 or 6 clicks. Around halfway I chatted to a very inspiring and funny guy called Danny. Danny was over 70 and taking part in his 453rd marathon, Legend. The ultras had by then done the additional loop and were joining up with the other runners and walkers doing the other various races. It was good fun running with Danny although I have to admit he was a little pacey for me. But I was enjoying our chat and just couldn't slow myself down, nothing to do with my ego at all, honest. Danny did seem to know all the other runners and walkers there and so when he stopped to hug and greet a few of them I said my farewells and wished him good times on his trip to Australia to run the Sydney and Melbourne marathons.
A couple of tough hills later and passing through Great Yews woodland, a very spookily enchanting forest. I met up with the barefoot runner again. Struggling with the hard terrain underfoot. A lot of hard ground, road and rocks doesn't fair well with the natural runners. Still he was grinning and bearing it and felt confident of finishing. I pressed on and seeing another runner with a UTSW shirt on I felt obliged to have a chat. He was not only running this ultra from start to finish but then turning around and completing it finish to start!! I look forward to the day when I will be ready to do that. Not only had he already completed a few 100milers but was in training for the Spartathon, one of the toughest out there. Courageous and I wish him well there.
The last third of the race things were starting to falter a little. The heat (or humidity) was taking its toll and my legs were heavy (probably sprinting too many down hills) but worse was that my calf just felt on the brink of cramping up. So I was just ticking off the miles in my head. 10 to go, 9, 8..5..3. hey that's about half hour. I could beat 5hours if i make myself push on. So no more walking or thinking about cramping up. Just get a shuffle on. These tactics seem to work for me as although I am no fast runner by starting out slow and then trying to pick it up at the end it certainly feels better tracking people and overtaking than having a blow out and everyone overtaking you.
The last mile approached and boy was it one long mile that stretched out seemingly forever. I glanced down at my watch a few times knowing that I had to push but my legs just didn't have anything. Staggering into the main part of Salisbury and past the cathedral was good. but when you are tired and trying to be in a hurry, having loads of people walking and shopping in your way doesn't go down well. And after it looked like I had lost my way and a feeling of dejection was going over me someone shouted and pointed the way to go. This bouyed me on and again someone helped me out at a car park to ensure I carried on running the right way and not stop and scratch my head. Crossing the final road and hearing the cheers and music and Stu, Jake and Melisa cheering me to hurry to the line for a 'sprint' finish and beating the 5 hour mark. Knackered but feeling satisfied.
A tough race, a good race. Nicely set up, great aid stations and support and well organised by the Fire service.
With the weather being too good to rest. We decided last minute to head down swanage on the friday to do a little sport climbing in Hedbury quarry. A couple of good climbs later we settled down to camp for the night. This being a quarry and on a sea cliff, wood was in short supply so a search around on the nearby hills brought us a bounty of dry rotten wood.We started a BBQ and made a firepit and a few beers later we were enjoying mint burgers, sausages and ribs washed down with some fine beers and wine. The night was a beautiful clear starry night and I tried in vain to get some good exposure shots of the Milky Way but, instead had to be content with shots of us messing around with firewood etc which came out surprisingly well.
Apart from the wind picking up strongly during the night I slept well and after a quick clear up we wondered over to the other side of the quarry to do a couple more climbs. These I found hard work, maybe a little too much wine last night. So instead of pushing on and doing more climbs we decided to call it a day and rest up before tomorrow.Ultra Day
This would be my second ultra race. A 50Km run in and around Salisbury, superbly organised by the Fire Service with a 54321 theme. 5 Rivers, 4 Hills, 3 Country estates, 2 Castles, 1 Cathedral. After the usual flaffing before the race the 50k runners headed out at 9am approx 120 of us. The turnout was good for all the different events to day had to offer (5, 10, 20, 30, 40 and 50k races). One issue I guess that most trail races with good turnouts have is at the start everyone has to go down the same paths and through the same gates. This made slow going for the first half hour. But I was in no hurry as my plan was to do this within 5.5hrs so there was plenty of time left in the day to stretch them legs.
Not long into the race we had a strong downpour most welcomed as it cooled us down on this hot and humid day. We all started to spread out so the barefoot (sandles) runner I was chatting to sprinted ahead but i decided to keep to an easy pace and just let the day unfold. A castle and a river passed I soon saw a unique sight in a camel grazing in a field. What things you see when out running. After running the outskirts of Old Sarum Fort we took to the outer limits of the town and onto the Claradon Way but soon peeled off and headed south to track down more rivers and hills. |
| Just about to pour down |
A couple of tough hills later and passing through Great Yews woodland, a very spookily enchanting forest. I met up with the barefoot runner again. Struggling with the hard terrain underfoot. A lot of hard ground, road and rocks doesn't fair well with the natural runners. Still he was grinning and bearing it and felt confident of finishing. I pressed on and seeing another runner with a UTSW shirt on I felt obliged to have a chat. He was not only running this ultra from start to finish but then turning around and completing it finish to start!! I look forward to the day when I will be ready to do that. Not only had he already completed a few 100milers but was in training for the Spartathon, one of the toughest out there. Courageous and I wish him well there.
The last third of the race things were starting to falter a little. The heat (or humidity) was taking its toll and my legs were heavy (probably sprinting too many down hills) but worse was that my calf just felt on the brink of cramping up. So I was just ticking off the miles in my head. 10 to go, 9, 8..5..3. hey that's about half hour. I could beat 5hours if i make myself push on. So no more walking or thinking about cramping up. Just get a shuffle on. These tactics seem to work for me as although I am no fast runner by starting out slow and then trying to pick it up at the end it certainly feels better tracking people and overtaking than having a blow out and everyone overtaking you.The last mile approached and boy was it one long mile that stretched out seemingly forever. I glanced down at my watch a few times knowing that I had to push but my legs just didn't have anything. Staggering into the main part of Salisbury and past the cathedral was good. but when you are tired and trying to be in a hurry, having loads of people walking and shopping in your way doesn't go down well. And after it looked like I had lost my way and a feeling of dejection was going over me someone shouted and pointed the way to go. This bouyed me on and again someone helped me out at a car park to ensure I carried on running the right way and not stop and scratch my head. Crossing the final road and hearing the cheers and music and Stu, Jake and Melisa cheering me to hurry to the line for a 'sprint' finish and beating the 5 hour mark. Knackered but feeling satisfied.
A tough race, a good race. Nicely set up, great aid stations and support and well organised by the Fire service.
Race stats : 50km, 31miles in 4hrs59mins.
Thursday, 14 June 2012
Welsh 1000 Fell race
The only way to get any good at fell running is to get in the mountains. But once in the mountains I always want to go climbing and so I signed up to do a mountain race. Actually, one of the amateur classics The Welsh 1000s. This starts near the sea at Aber and runs up into the Carnedds down to Ogwen and up the Glyders, then down to llanberis pass and finally up to the top of Snowdon. One tough race and arriving on the friday the rain kept falling as it had all week and a cheeky climb to warm up those muscles was replaced into a drive around the valleys and watching the thousands waterfalls coming down from all nooks and crannies. In fact some of the falls were going vertically up due to the power of the wind. We then sat in the bunkhouse switching between watching the Euros on TV and the weather outside in a full on gale as the river below burst its banks and flooded the farmlands as the animals took shelter on any high ground.
This didn't bode well and so it proved at the race meeting in the evening. 5 peaks turned to 4 as Glyder Fawr was taken of route due to safety issues and also the probability that the route would change again by morning depending on what we would awake to.
The fell runners started at 9am (other race categories had started earlier) approx 100 of us, some covered head to foot in waterproofs and thermals while others, the more competitive I expect, had little more than tee shirt, shorts and a small bum bag no doubt carrying all there mandatory kit. Hmmm. As we all made our way to the first hill things were a little congested although the hill sorted out the fell runners to the wannabees and people were stretched and grouped out nicely within a few miles. I settled in a comfy pace with a group of runners and we by passed the Carnedds and decended via a road into Bethesda then onto a cycle track up the valley to Ogwen. At this point I was pretty drenched but had kept my feet relatively dry but the endless waterfalls coming off the mountains took there toll on the tracks and soon they were not just large puddles to jump around but actual rivers flowing down the roads which were unavoidable in getting your feet soaked. I had good company at this time (Mike a friendly Manc) and we managed to enjoy some conversation and keep a good pace on to the first CheckPoint at Ogwen.
(Stage 1 stats - 18km, 600metres in 1hr25mins).
From here you just go up. I know this area well and so was confident where to go and after climbing up the first steep ground to Llyn Bochlwyd we made a mini river crossing and ascended to the saddle between Tryfan and Fach. I had left Mike near the lake presuming he would catch me at some point and overtook a fair few people getting to the saddle and only saw one person in front of me as the clouds enveloped us. Foolishly I followed this person and although I had doubts on the route it wasnt until it started going up very steeply that i knew I was going wrong and checking the map confirmed this. So down we went back to the saddle a fustrating 15+mins lost plus some energy levels in a wasteful ascent. Back on track I caught up with Mike who was surprised to see me at the top. We were redirected here to stay on the miners track to the road instead of taking a cross country route due to the river being to high to cross. Again I was disappointed that this wasn't happening as this would of added spice to the race. The descent though was far from dull. 500metres over rough terrain overflowing with water, rocks and bogs. This was fast and treachorous but what fell running is all about where falling isn't an option. Although one man did manage to fall but fortunately it was in the bog section and so looked a cheerful sight. After such a fun descent had to come a slog, which was the road back up to Pen y Pass.
Stage 2 stats - 8km 650m in 1hr55.
From Pen y Pass its the Pyg track to the top. The only part of the race which had remained unchanged. I have never taken this way up to Snowdon and boy is it a slog. To be honest most ways up are. After soon taking the track I lost sight of Mike and unfortunately we never bumped into each other again , but it was great running with him. By now the legs were getting very tired the rest of me felt ok. I could of done with a little more food and water but things were closing in and it was getting much colder and being soaked to the bone for the last x amount of hours I just wanted to finish now. My worst feeling came at the top of the saddle. I had just slogged it up to near the top of snowdon but instead of heading for the finish line you have to go in the opposite direction to surmount our first 1000m peak of the race, Garnedd Ugain. Conditions were more akin to winter here and great appreciation has to go out to this marshal especially but to all those who helped put the race on. Once dibbed it was just a matter of getting to the finish which was completely shrouded in clouds and hoards of tourists. Once finished it was just a matter of getting into the cafe and finding Stu who was walking up to met me. In the cafe huddled hundreds of people all not wanting to leave but all inevitable must. I got myself some food and drink but still there was no sign of Stu and there was no mobile signal. Just when my mind was starting to decide what the hell to do, Stu appeared and best of all had my spare dry cloths for me to change into my shivering body.
Stage 3 stats - 6.5km 900m 1hr20min
Race stats 32.5km 2150m in 4hrs40. Placed 42'nd (Could of been 30th if i didnt lose that 15+mins going up Glyder Fach, d'oh, but shows that the race was close. Winner won it in 3hrs30, hats off).
A great first fell race and with what the weather had to throw at us and the race actually taking place then I am eager to do more fell running and to complete in the full race next year.
After a celebratory beer we headed down the Watkins path. Only another 6km and 1000m of descent and I could go and grab a shower, beer and steak.
As a bonus the weather cleared enough the next day for Stu and me to do a little climbing and did the ultra classic Direct route on Milestone Buttress. Fantastic route and great leading from Stu on his first multi pitch route. Here's to many more. So you can go to wales and have a superb weekend of both running and climbing.
 |
 |
| In short time the river had burst its banks |
We left Capel curig in the morning in good spirits as the weather was Ok but the further up the valley we went the rain came and the dark menacing clouds seemed glued to the higher ground. At the race start it was confirmed the route had changed. Infact the entire Carnedds were off limits and a straight forward route up the Glyders where more possible changes would be made later on the decent option. This weather was sure giving a lot of people headaches. But, and big respect to all the organisers the race was going ahead as I would of accepted it being cancelled.
The fell runners started at 9am (other race categories had started earlier) approx 100 of us, some covered head to foot in waterproofs and thermals while others, the more competitive I expect, had little more than tee shirt, shorts and a small bum bag no doubt carrying all there mandatory kit. Hmmm. As we all made our way to the first hill things were a little congested although the hill sorted out the fell runners to the wannabees and people were stretched and grouped out nicely within a few miles. I settled in a comfy pace with a group of runners and we by passed the Carnedds and decended via a road into Bethesda then onto a cycle track up the valley to Ogwen. At this point I was pretty drenched but had kept my feet relatively dry but the endless waterfalls coming off the mountains took there toll on the tracks and soon they were not just large puddles to jump around but actual rivers flowing down the roads which were unavoidable in getting your feet soaked. I had good company at this time (Mike a friendly Manc) and we managed to enjoy some conversation and keep a good pace on to the first CheckPoint at Ogwen.(Stage 1 stats - 18km, 600metres in 1hr25mins).
Stage 2 stats - 8km 650m in 1hr55.
From Pen y Pass its the Pyg track to the top. The only part of the race which had remained unchanged. I have never taken this way up to Snowdon and boy is it a slog. To be honest most ways up are. After soon taking the track I lost sight of Mike and unfortunately we never bumped into each other again , but it was great running with him. By now the legs were getting very tired the rest of me felt ok. I could of done with a little more food and water but things were closing in and it was getting much colder and being soaked to the bone for the last x amount of hours I just wanted to finish now. My worst feeling came at the top of the saddle. I had just slogged it up to near the top of snowdon but instead of heading for the finish line you have to go in the opposite direction to surmount our first 1000m peak of the race, Garnedd Ugain. Conditions were more akin to winter here and great appreciation has to go out to this marshal especially but to all those who helped put the race on. Once dibbed it was just a matter of getting to the finish which was completely shrouded in clouds and hoards of tourists. Once finished it was just a matter of getting into the cafe and finding Stu who was walking up to met me. In the cafe huddled hundreds of people all not wanting to leave but all inevitable must. I got myself some food and drink but still there was no sign of Stu and there was no mobile signal. Just when my mind was starting to decide what the hell to do, Stu appeared and best of all had my spare dry cloths for me to change into my shivering body.Stage 3 stats - 6.5km 900m 1hr20min
Race stats 32.5km 2150m in 4hrs40. Placed 42'nd (Could of been 30th if i didnt lose that 15+mins going up Glyder Fach, d'oh, but shows that the race was close. Winner won it in 3hrs30, hats off).A great first fell race and with what the weather had to throw at us and the race actually taking place then I am eager to do more fell running and to complete in the full race next year.
After a celebratory beer we headed down the Watkins path. Only another 6km and 1000m of descent and I could go and grab a shower, beer and steak.
As a bonus the weather cleared enough the next day for Stu and me to do a little climbing and did the ultra classic Direct route on Milestone Buttress. Fantastic route and great leading from Stu on his first multi pitch route. Here's to many more. So you can go to wales and have a superb weekend of both running and climbing.
Saturday, 17 March 2012
Tuesday, 9 August 2011
Training weekend in North Wales
With less than a month to go to our 4 day Coast to Coast adventure race, we thought we would get ourselves to North Wales for a few days training. So finishing work and flying up the busy motorways we managed to get to Idwal Cottage for around 4pm. The weather was perfectly stunning and we kept the plan easy of just doing some easy climbing on Idwal slabs to get back in the grove of rock climbing - it's been a while. And so we ticked off Hope (VD 450ft), Lazarus (HS 150ft) and Grove Above (S 100ft). 3 Superb climbs each above each other and so we finished 700ft above the valley floor enjoying the beautiful summers evening (shame the midges could enjoy our company this high up).
Enchainment Day (Travelled over 10km with 1400m of ascent and descent)
We awoke to a grey morning but were excited about the day’s big plan. An enchainment of the Glyders, linking in 3 or 4 climbs on different peaks. We headed up into the Devils Kitchen and scrambled up Idwal Buttress (D 300ft) and then traversed over to the base of Glyder Fawr as the wind and rain started to pick up. With some interesting greasy pitches we topped out from climbing Central Arete (VD 650ft) and found a small cave to shelter from the driving rain whilst having our lunch. Getting cold we made our way down Y Gribin undecided on what to do and jumping from choice to choice - keep climbing, go biking, maybe running or just go home. At the bottom the weather cleared significantly for us to take the gallant approach and carry on climbing we were ,after all, in the midst of the mountains. We deferred on climbing a route on Glyder Fach and moved over to the east face of Tryfan where Grooved Arete awaited us. I have wanted this climb since I had started climbing years ago and Dave would bring me up to Wales time and time again and with an endless list of reasons we never got around to climbing it. And so, each time I now visit Wales it’s at the forefront of my mind. With the weather brightening things were looking hopeful. That’s when Dr 'Jinx' Jake piped in that he would be doing this climb on his very first attempt. Thanks Jake. We found the heather terrace and the heavens opened up. We huddled up in another cave and had another lunch but it soon became apparent that things weren't changing soon and so we descended. On getting to the bottom the weather gods gave us one last dilemma and with Milestone Buttress right there in front of us we decided to have a go at another climb, Direct Route (VD 200ft). I started the first pitch not feeling it. I liked the climbing but constantly thought I was going to slip on the smooth polished limestone, which didn't sit well in my mind. Most of the way up the pitch the first drops of rain started to fall and that was my ticket to get the hell of this crag. And as Jake was belaying me off the rain hurtled down and kept us company all the way back to the hostel. It also kept me up and wet all night in my soaked tent (hmm another route I will have to complete one of these days).
Coed Brenin (Biked/Ran 40+km)
Wet and tired we awoke to another dreary day in the mountains and headed south for some biking. This wet weather won’t hinder us riding, I so wrongly assumed. Within 2 minutes of starting on the trails I had fallen over twice and by wearing Spds (clip ins) and not releasing quick enough I took a couple of hard knocks. We did a short circuit and returned to change to normal pedals. I was not liking the wet terrain and being stuck in the pedals, which I had, only used a couple of times previous. We hit the next trail a 20km black. My mood was downbeat and I was still massaging my confidence, so it was hard going in mind and body. I took a couple of half falls, one of which raked the back of my calf and put me in a fouler mood. Nearing the end I bumped down a steep and as per usual I just couldn’t seem to turn the handle bars the way I wanted and I careered straight into a boulder and tumbled head first. Initially I was just peeved of but, then was concerned with my arm but it was just cut up. It was the knock to my chest, which would be the most hindering and still today, days later I struggle to breath fully and get a good nights sleep in. So with battered confidence I took the short cut home while Jake continued his ride. Which he was loving. Back at base I reflected and decided it stupid to get back on the bike after lunch. It seemed I was just getting myself into accidents no matter how I rode. This I could ill afford with me dependent on being able bodied to work. A good plan was hatched in that Jake could continue to ride and I would run the trail. We took on another 20km black, MBR. With things brightening up we both enjoyed the trail. Good things couldn't last though and at one point I took a short cut, which turned out to be a bad choice. An old track I followed soon disappeared, so I headed directly up the very steep forest embankment. When I popped out of the woods thick brambles and thorn bushes confronted me. I waded my way up through this never ending bush cutting experience and finally came upon a track and feeling hacked off I powered my broken body home. The only things I can take from this day is that it was one of Jakes best - so at least someone enjoyed themselves and I can put it into that character building bracket.
Taking the long way home that evening turned out to be a refreshing end to the day. Sat in the evening sun on a bar terrace in Abersoch listening to live music from a guy singing acoustic feel good tunes.
Half Enchainment (Travelled 6.5km with 600m+ of ascent/descent)
After a nice dry nights sleep in the hostel, which was damn good. What was bad was being in a room full of snorers. Still it beat being in the wet tent with sore ribs, arms etc etc. It was a familiar day. It sucked. Grey and threatening to chuck it down at any time. So our plan of a long day on Amphitheatre buttress in the Carnedds was scraped and we decided to stick fairly close and to do easy climbing. So back up Cwm Idwal to find the start of Sub Cniefion (VD 300ft) and get that deju vu feeling of arriving at the foot of the climb and it begins to pour down. Undeterred, I sent Jake up for what was a great lead in awful conditions. I was soaked and frozen by the time he finished. No, I am not having a go at how slow he went, just to point out what the climbing was from my perspective (just do it quicker next time Jake). My lead was an easy zig zag who’s only difficultly was the rope drag I had to contend with. When Jake joined me we could not fathom where the route went and so he went straight up the face. Another good lead but again I was pretty cold by the time I started and within a few metres I could see where the original route went off to the right. Oh well, a first ascent for Jake. On finishing this climb we headed up the Cwm in ever worsening conditions. At one point I questioned where we were but in negligible visibility it was hard to pin point our position. A gust of wind faintly showed the outline of Cniefion arete (M 400ft). Jake again lead (in trainers, climbing shoes seemed pointless by now) in what can only be described as a heavy downpour. It was a good easy short pitch and I followed up an enjoyable chimney pitch. After this, to quicken things up as we were getting a little tired of the wind and rain, we simu climbed the remainder of the route.
Again the weather brightened in the evening all to late to dry our soddened gear. But our training weekend was over it was time to get back to work. Something I was pleased about, as I do not think my body would be able to do much more. R&R until I am able to breath more easily.
With the usual poor weather in Wales I think we were able to at least get out each day and cover a lot of terrain, do some different disciplines and be out for long days. So it was not wasted, as we are now a little more ready for the Coast to Coast at the end of the month.
Thursday, 9 December 2010
Ama Dablam 2010
Ama Dablam Himalayan Expedition 2010
Ama Dablam Himalayan Expedition 2010
by Andy Humphrey
So, good time? Nice holiday? Seems to be the general question now I am back. Good time? Hmm, I think so. Holiday? Far from it. So what is my overall impression of this 'trip'? Well what did I do? It starts of with a quickly forgotten flight on Air India and then eases into beautiful warm days trekking through the Khumba.
After arriving in Lukla (2800m) we soon get into a trekking rhythm, up early for breakfast, mid morning break for drinks, then lunch and generally finish mid afternoon to chill out in the tea house with hot drinks and biscuits to see us through until dinner time. It may seem like I’m eating my cake but in between these essential breaks were long walks through breathtaking valleys and across spectacular rivers down to Phak Ding (2600m) for our first night in the khumba.
We then travelled up the Kosi River with numerous river crossings and entered the national park at Monjo, then the hard work began with a long tough uphill up to Namche Bazaar (3450m) but, with a rewarding first view of Everest. At Namche we all had a well-deserved treat of coffee and cake then onto Kyanjuma (3600m) to Tachi’s place for a 2-day rest with another first, glimpses of the magnificent Ama Dablam between the ever-accumulating clouds. After resting up, it’s onto Tengboche where we visit the monastery and then travel a little further up the valley, with spectacular views of Ama along the whole route, to Panboche (4000m) for our last 'comfortable' night.
From here it’s an easy stroll up to basecamp (4450m), a glorious position. Then it’s 3 days resting, procedures and generally getting use to the whole mountain set up, especially the cold nights. We also had our Puja (blessing) by the local Lama. With our own tents and a comfortable mess tent with movie nights, it was quick to get homely and to concentrate and prepare for the challenge ahead. Unfortunately, the day everyone made their way up to ABC and Camp 1 for the first acclimatization run I come down with an illness and so watch them all energetically leave BC, while I make a dash for the isolated red tent (toilet). Although I manage a load up to ABC on one of the days the combination of altitude and illness really does knock me back and is a depressing realisation that this wont be easy but, day by day I feel better and start feeling positive again and decide to get going with a night at ABC (5300m) and C1 (5700m) with a few of the other guys. For those that enjoy hard walking this amble from BC to ABC to C1 is gruelling hours of slogging up the appropriately named Shithill 1 & 2. Worst was to follow after these but I guess the ‘location namers’ didn’t want to dishearten too many with lots of uninspiring location names and so the never-ending path to ABC and the massive boulder field to C1 would just remain a surprise to those that made it this far. Admittedly, these are quickly forgotten once packs are discarded and a brew in hand to soak in the incredible scenery and inspiring sunsets.
After a couple of restless and tiring but successful nights out it was back down to BC for R&R and a plan of action for our summit attempts. A group from Keswick (5) arrive from having just summitted Island Peak and are first in the pecking order, followed by the stronger half of our group (5) the day after and then the rest (5, including me) the day after that. It would be a shame to watch everyone go first but knowing that our attempts would be imminent the excitement was hard to contain.
Our intrepid leader Tim kept his head on knowing that plans change and the comings and goings in the next week would be fully utilising his time culminating, unfortunately, on his summit day bid with a tent at C1 blowing away as he arrived. After rescuing and sorting the contents, with the help of some friendly porters, this put paid to his summit bid this year. Lucky for Tim he can have another go.
As for our group...leaving the comparative luxury of BC for our bids we hit the hard slopes of Shithill 1 and 2 and I think we all felt like passing out at ABC but, it would be another 2 to 3 hrs of boulder jumping up to C1. As uncomfortable as C1 tents were I was pleased to see them and happy to sit around and get into the routine of camp, sort tent out, get ice, melt ice, drink, melt ice, cook, eat, melt ice. A visit to the best toilet views in the world and then back to melting ice before hoping to get some sleep in this cold, harsh environment - well it would be if not for the tent, sleeping bag and the hot water bottle.
You were generally woken up each morning around 6ish to lie in your bag counting down for the sun to hit the tent and, what a feeling it was when it did. It seemed those magic rays could warm and liven you up instantly. After more collecting/melting snow, ensuring through bleary eyes that no 'yellow' snow got in the sack it was sticky toffee pudding or some other wayfayer delight for brekkie.
We had 2 days at C1 to ensure the higher camps were clear for the 2 parties above us for their ascent and decent. On the second day we were able to watch both parties move from C2 to C2.9 and the others make their summit bid. This had to coincide with the worst day so far and in horrendous conditions one of the Keswick crew managed to top out. A tremendous effort.
Then came the arduous task for us, getting everything needed for the next 3 to 4 days into a rucksack. After a lot of huffing and puffing and some chuffing language I managed to get the gear in the sack. Notice I didn’t say all the gear as whilst packing you soon realise that this is not needed and you might be able to do without that and therefore it fits. The route from C1 to C2 has to be the most enjoyable. It's easy scrambling and traversing and with full packs and big boots on you feel like you are high mountaineering finally. This great section culminates in the challenging Yellow Tower, a 25m vertical wall just before C2. I found this to be a great fix line pitch and it got my juices going for what lay ahead. If C1 was clustered crowding then C2 (6000m) was precarious positioning in the extreme. 3 tents sat on an exposed ridge. Most of us arrived after the Yellow Tower grinding just to be grateful to see accommodation, without reflecting on the sudden drops on all sides. Maybe it was the tiredness or maybe we were all acclimatizing to both the altitude and the exposure.
All I can say about the next section, C2 to C3 is ‘wow’. It has everything. It will push your resolve to the fullest. I personally must have seriously pondered what to do next countless times and the abject danger is inherent throughout. It is not for some it turned out, with several backing out at certain stages along this section. Why? Well, thrown out of C2 immediately into your crampons across a knife-edge ridge then slammed into a zigzag traverse over mix terrain. You are on fixed lines but still you question whether you can do each pitch. The 'safety' is there but constantly you look below with dread. Once the traverse is past you are put into the firing line of the Grey Couloir. As a couloir it naturally acts as a funnel for all rock and ice from above so climbers must be wary and fully aware of who and what is above them. Although steep there are plenty of nice steps to rest on and all too slowly the couloir turns into a snow slope.
Trying not to relax too soon I came to my big dilemma, a single rope up a steep rock band onto a snow slope to its anchor 30m away. This I did not fancy, especially after talking to a descending climber who also didn’t like the look of this and having fresh in my mind of ropes snapping on 2 colleagues the day before,.lucky they were both on double ropes. The main issue was that I had been climbing now for 2 days on fixed ropes, all of which had redundancies, so it came naturally to jumar up one rope with another rope acting as back up. With what seemed to be a 3000m drop below my feet I became unstuck on whether it was sensible to proceed on this single rope! After radio discussions with other climbers and Tim, I waited for our Sherpa Lakpa to arrive and he nonchalantly scrambled up the rope, found some spare cord and set up another line. Although this lengthy delay turned me into an ice cube I was an extremely grateful to see that additional rope which enabled me to carry on with my bid. Unbeknownst to me, after all those mind games, the majority of the ropes from this point on would be single and there was no time to be begging my sherpa friend to find and set up extra cord for each section. You have to trust the rope, trust the work the Sherpa's have done and get on with the climb. I thought I was home free only for Lakpa to ruin this thought for me, estimating another 1 to 2 hours. Bugger. It is relentless and does not get easy at any point. After a sporty traverse that involves abbing first and then shuffling along to then jumar up to the Mushroom ridge, where the wind and cold really starts to kick in. The ridge is exposed and escape is nowhere to be seen and so you have to climb on. At one point, on seeing the tents and wrongfully thinking I was nearly there, I found refuge from the constant winds behind a rare enclave in the ridge rocks. Here I rested up for what seemed like an eternity and feasted on an Alpen bar. With renewed energy the final slopes and ridges passed in a blur with my desire to get into some shelter from the battering wind.
C2.9 (6300m) came as a blessing and I threw myself into the first tent. Once I had my breath back I soon realised that sleep was not going to come easy. The constant wind seemed to be trying harder and harder to take the tent away with me in it. After laughing this off for a while it soon turned into a plea of ‘please stop’. Just as we were thinking of how mad this could drive us the smiling face of Lakpa appeared and sweetly told us in broken English of a sanctuary from the wind just around the corner. A hurried repack and quick walk brought us to a cave area completely protected from the wind and while we made our new home Lakpa again was out in the wind bringing another tent around for our group, amazing. C2.9 what a position! Nestled into the glacier with car length icicles hanging over us and a drop into oblivion just cms away it has to be the best campsite in the world. Even collecting ice was easy, a few swings of the ice axe from the comfort of the tent and hey presto it’s all in arms reach.
Summit day. So maybe it’s not the best campsite in the world. The sun tantalises but does not quite reach us ensuring a cold morning start. Still, today’s the day and after getting fuelled up we are raring to go. A grateful bonus is that we will not be carrying heavy packs today and after climbing the first ridge to the Mushroom platform. I am absolutely drained and cannot see how I can take another step and this damn wind just won’t go away. Looking up the slope to the Dablam it’s a little crowded with other climbers so at least there is no rush to get going. Composed again we set off. The slopes are easy, great climbing and situation as long as you avoid the spider web of ropes and ensure you are attached onto the newer fixed in ropes then it’s all about pacing yourself and moving up the mountain. Apart from the slow, hacking parties that we had to overtake it’s a wonderful climb up past and through the Dablam then onto a relentless ridge. The last pitch was truly put there for a final test of stamina. It gets steep and then you have a snow bridge over a bergschrund. Then just as you think you cannot go on any further you are celebrating at the top (6856m). The view is truly amazing and includes Cho Oyu, Pumori, Nuptse, Lhotse, Makalu, Kangchengjunga and of course Everest. It is hard to take it all in and thankfully, before anyone gets emotional, we get on with the task on descending. With a figure 8, big mitts, frozen hands and a tired body we start the endless abseils. We were happy, exhausted folk on arrival back at C2.9 for a brew.
I managed not a wink of sleep that night. I was buzzing and my mind was racing about, not helped with a constant waterfall of snow and ice falling on the tent from climbers descending during the night. It was a relief to see daylight and get the stove on in the morning. Packing up was a depressing task, mainly because we were tired and the sacks felt so heavy, but also that that was it, There was now nothing to look up to or look forward to, only 2000m of vertical descent. We left C2.9 and with only one mishap on the way down; a tangle in the ropes where Lakpa had set the extra rope for me. One of our group didn’t realise this had a knot in it half way down. Crisis over, we made C2 in good time and feeling optimistic that we could be in BC in no time. Spoke too soon, as no sooner had we left C2 one of us started feeling unwell and had to go slow in fear of passing out and so our ‘go quick’ policy turned to ‘go slow’ and we took our time over the many traverses and abs. Arriving at C1 I started feeling weak due to dehydration and with no water left I decided to go ahead to reach BC before I got any worse. Arriving in camp was pure relief as darkness developed.
With no time to adjust back to our home base we were packed and heading down the valley the very next day but not before saying our farewells to all the team who had looked after us so well. What can I say about these Sherpa’s? They are legends. The trek out was hugely enjoyable, with 3 days to travel out we all managed to take in the sights, move around with an abundance of energy for the first time since arriving it seemed. We were all able to enjoy a beer or two and have a shower for the first time in an age, something I wouldn’t want to make a habit of. It was with sudden sadness that after taking one more corner Ama Dablam disappeared from view but the memories will remain and the photos to remind me of this majestic mountain and area.
With news of flights being delayed and Lukla airport filling up with travellers, we were all relieved to get on our flights just as the clouds were gathering and the queue at Starbucks was becoming unacceptable. All that was left was a couple of day’s downtime to relax, drink and buy gifts in the hustle and bustle of Kathmandu.
On reflection, any regrets I ask myself? It was a big decision to go. Escalating costs, time consuming, a few whatif's and doubts. No, absolutely none (unless a better immune system counts). These trips inspire, they become unforgettable, great memories, once in a lifetime ‘holidays’ (Well I hope not). Climbing mountains is not for everyone, but one can be in their environment to enjoy the beauty and feel the atmosphere. Trekking and climbing in the Himalayas has something for everyone who loves the outdoor world.
Namaste.
Note about our expedition leader, Tim Mosedale. From meeting up in Sam’s Bar, Kathmandu to saying farewell at the airport he was exceptional. I found him approachable, good humoured and organized. Everything was sorted, he was wealth of information, an expert in all fields (shame, as I would of liked to win occasionally at Connect4 and cards). I have no hesitation in recommending Tim if any of you are planning any trips to the Lakes or further a field. He currently runs Ama Dablam each year and is guiding Everest this year.
Ama Dablam Himalayan Expedition 2010
by Andy Humphrey
So, good time? Nice holiday? Seems to be the general question now I am back. Good time? Hmm, I think so. Holiday? Far from it. So what is my overall impression of this 'trip'? Well what did I do? It starts of with a quickly forgotten flight on Air India and then eases into beautiful warm days trekking through the Khumba.
After arriving in Lukla (2800m) we soon get into a trekking rhythm, up early for breakfast, mid morning break for drinks, then lunch and generally finish mid afternoon to chill out in the tea house with hot drinks and biscuits to see us through until dinner time. It may seem like I’m eating my cake but in between these essential breaks were long walks through breathtaking valleys and across spectacular rivers down to Phak Ding (2600m) for our first night in the khumba.
We then travelled up the Kosi River with numerous river crossings and entered the national park at Monjo, then the hard work began with a long tough uphill up to Namche Bazaar (3450m) but, with a rewarding first view of Everest. At Namche we all had a well-deserved treat of coffee and cake then onto Kyanjuma (3600m) to Tachi’s place for a 2-day rest with another first, glimpses of the magnificent Ama Dablam between the ever-accumulating clouds. After resting up, it’s onto Tengboche where we visit the monastery and then travel a little further up the valley, with spectacular views of Ama along the whole route, to Panboche (4000m) for our last 'comfortable' night.
From here it’s an easy stroll up to basecamp (4450m), a glorious position. Then it’s 3 days resting, procedures and generally getting use to the whole mountain set up, especially the cold nights. We also had our Puja (blessing) by the local Lama. With our own tents and a comfortable mess tent with movie nights, it was quick to get homely and to concentrate and prepare for the challenge ahead. Unfortunately, the day everyone made their way up to ABC and Camp 1 for the first acclimatization run I come down with an illness and so watch them all energetically leave BC, while I make a dash for the isolated red tent (toilet). Although I manage a load up to ABC on one of the days the combination of altitude and illness really does knock me back and is a depressing realisation that this wont be easy but, day by day I feel better and start feeling positive again and decide to get going with a night at ABC (5300m) and C1 (5700m) with a few of the other guys. For those that enjoy hard walking this amble from BC to ABC to C1 is gruelling hours of slogging up the appropriately named Shithill 1 & 2. Worst was to follow after these but I guess the ‘location namers’ didn’t want to dishearten too many with lots of uninspiring location names and so the never-ending path to ABC and the massive boulder field to C1 would just remain a surprise to those that made it this far. Admittedly, these are quickly forgotten once packs are discarded and a brew in hand to soak in the incredible scenery and inspiring sunsets.
After a couple of restless and tiring but successful nights out it was back down to BC for R&R and a plan of action for our summit attempts. A group from Keswick (5) arrive from having just summitted Island Peak and are first in the pecking order, followed by the stronger half of our group (5) the day after and then the rest (5, including me) the day after that. It would be a shame to watch everyone go first but knowing that our attempts would be imminent the excitement was hard to contain.
Our intrepid leader Tim kept his head on knowing that plans change and the comings and goings in the next week would be fully utilising his time culminating, unfortunately, on his summit day bid with a tent at C1 blowing away as he arrived. After rescuing and sorting the contents, with the help of some friendly porters, this put paid to his summit bid this year. Lucky for Tim he can have another go.
As for our group...leaving the comparative luxury of BC for our bids we hit the hard slopes of Shithill 1 and 2 and I think we all felt like passing out at ABC but, it would be another 2 to 3 hrs of boulder jumping up to C1. As uncomfortable as C1 tents were I was pleased to see them and happy to sit around and get into the routine of camp, sort tent out, get ice, melt ice, drink, melt ice, cook, eat, melt ice. A visit to the best toilet views in the world and then back to melting ice before hoping to get some sleep in this cold, harsh environment - well it would be if not for the tent, sleeping bag and the hot water bottle.
You were generally woken up each morning around 6ish to lie in your bag counting down for the sun to hit the tent and, what a feeling it was when it did. It seemed those magic rays could warm and liven you up instantly. After more collecting/melting snow, ensuring through bleary eyes that no 'yellow' snow got in the sack it was sticky toffee pudding or some other wayfayer delight for brekkie.
We had 2 days at C1 to ensure the higher camps were clear for the 2 parties above us for their ascent and decent. On the second day we were able to watch both parties move from C2 to C2.9 and the others make their summit bid. This had to coincide with the worst day so far and in horrendous conditions one of the Keswick crew managed to top out. A tremendous effort.
Then came the arduous task for us, getting everything needed for the next 3 to 4 days into a rucksack. After a lot of huffing and puffing and some chuffing language I managed to get the gear in the sack. Notice I didn’t say all the gear as whilst packing you soon realise that this is not needed and you might be able to do without that and therefore it fits. The route from C1 to C2 has to be the most enjoyable. It's easy scrambling and traversing and with full packs and big boots on you feel like you are high mountaineering finally. This great section culminates in the challenging Yellow Tower, a 25m vertical wall just before C2. I found this to be a great fix line pitch and it got my juices going for what lay ahead. If C1 was clustered crowding then C2 (6000m) was precarious positioning in the extreme. 3 tents sat on an exposed ridge. Most of us arrived after the Yellow Tower grinding just to be grateful to see accommodation, without reflecting on the sudden drops on all sides. Maybe it was the tiredness or maybe we were all acclimatizing to both the altitude and the exposure.
All I can say about the next section, C2 to C3 is ‘wow’. It has everything. It will push your resolve to the fullest. I personally must have seriously pondered what to do next countless times and the abject danger is inherent throughout. It is not for some it turned out, with several backing out at certain stages along this section. Why? Well, thrown out of C2 immediately into your crampons across a knife-edge ridge then slammed into a zigzag traverse over mix terrain. You are on fixed lines but still you question whether you can do each pitch. The 'safety' is there but constantly you look below with dread. Once the traverse is past you are put into the firing line of the Grey Couloir. As a couloir it naturally acts as a funnel for all rock and ice from above so climbers must be wary and fully aware of who and what is above them. Although steep there are plenty of nice steps to rest on and all too slowly the couloir turns into a snow slope.
Trying not to relax too soon I came to my big dilemma, a single rope up a steep rock band onto a snow slope to its anchor 30m away. This I did not fancy, especially after talking to a descending climber who also didn’t like the look of this and having fresh in my mind of ropes snapping on 2 colleagues the day before,.lucky they were both on double ropes. The main issue was that I had been climbing now for 2 days on fixed ropes, all of which had redundancies, so it came naturally to jumar up one rope with another rope acting as back up. With what seemed to be a 3000m drop below my feet I became unstuck on whether it was sensible to proceed on this single rope! After radio discussions with other climbers and Tim, I waited for our Sherpa Lakpa to arrive and he nonchalantly scrambled up the rope, found some spare cord and set up another line. Although this lengthy delay turned me into an ice cube I was an extremely grateful to see that additional rope which enabled me to carry on with my bid. Unbeknownst to me, after all those mind games, the majority of the ropes from this point on would be single and there was no time to be begging my sherpa friend to find and set up extra cord for each section. You have to trust the rope, trust the work the Sherpa's have done and get on with the climb. I thought I was home free only for Lakpa to ruin this thought for me, estimating another 1 to 2 hours. Bugger. It is relentless and does not get easy at any point. After a sporty traverse that involves abbing first and then shuffling along to then jumar up to the Mushroom ridge, where the wind and cold really starts to kick in. The ridge is exposed and escape is nowhere to be seen and so you have to climb on. At one point, on seeing the tents and wrongfully thinking I was nearly there, I found refuge from the constant winds behind a rare enclave in the ridge rocks. Here I rested up for what seemed like an eternity and feasted on an Alpen bar. With renewed energy the final slopes and ridges passed in a blur with my desire to get into some shelter from the battering wind.
C2.9 (6300m) came as a blessing and I threw myself into the first tent. Once I had my breath back I soon realised that sleep was not going to come easy. The constant wind seemed to be trying harder and harder to take the tent away with me in it. After laughing this off for a while it soon turned into a plea of ‘please stop’. Just as we were thinking of how mad this could drive us the smiling face of Lakpa appeared and sweetly told us in broken English of a sanctuary from the wind just around the corner. A hurried repack and quick walk brought us to a cave area completely protected from the wind and while we made our new home Lakpa again was out in the wind bringing another tent around for our group, amazing. C2.9 what a position! Nestled into the glacier with car length icicles hanging over us and a drop into oblivion just cms away it has to be the best campsite in the world. Even collecting ice was easy, a few swings of the ice axe from the comfort of the tent and hey presto it’s all in arms reach.
Summit day. So maybe it’s not the best campsite in the world. The sun tantalises but does not quite reach us ensuring a cold morning start. Still, today’s the day and after getting fuelled up we are raring to go. A grateful bonus is that we will not be carrying heavy packs today and after climbing the first ridge to the Mushroom platform. I am absolutely drained and cannot see how I can take another step and this damn wind just won’t go away. Looking up the slope to the Dablam it’s a little crowded with other climbers so at least there is no rush to get going. Composed again we set off. The slopes are easy, great climbing and situation as long as you avoid the spider web of ropes and ensure you are attached onto the newer fixed in ropes then it’s all about pacing yourself and moving up the mountain. Apart from the slow, hacking parties that we had to overtake it’s a wonderful climb up past and through the Dablam then onto a relentless ridge. The last pitch was truly put there for a final test of stamina. It gets steep and then you have a snow bridge over a bergschrund. Then just as you think you cannot go on any further you are celebrating at the top (6856m). The view is truly amazing and includes Cho Oyu, Pumori, Nuptse, Lhotse, Makalu, Kangchengjunga and of course Everest. It is hard to take it all in and thankfully, before anyone gets emotional, we get on with the task on descending. With a figure 8, big mitts, frozen hands and a tired body we start the endless abseils. We were happy, exhausted folk on arrival back at C2.9 for a brew.
I managed not a wink of sleep that night. I was buzzing and my mind was racing about, not helped with a constant waterfall of snow and ice falling on the tent from climbers descending during the night. It was a relief to see daylight and get the stove on in the morning. Packing up was a depressing task, mainly because we were tired and the sacks felt so heavy, but also that that was it, There was now nothing to look up to or look forward to, only 2000m of vertical descent. We left C2.9 and with only one mishap on the way down; a tangle in the ropes where Lakpa had set the extra rope for me. One of our group didn’t realise this had a knot in it half way down. Crisis over, we made C2 in good time and feeling optimistic that we could be in BC in no time. Spoke too soon, as no sooner had we left C2 one of us started feeling unwell and had to go slow in fear of passing out and so our ‘go quick’ policy turned to ‘go slow’ and we took our time over the many traverses and abs. Arriving at C1 I started feeling weak due to dehydration and with no water left I decided to go ahead to reach BC before I got any worse. Arriving in camp was pure relief as darkness developed.
With no time to adjust back to our home base we were packed and heading down the valley the very next day but not before saying our farewells to all the team who had looked after us so well. What can I say about these Sherpa’s? They are legends. The trek out was hugely enjoyable, with 3 days to travel out we all managed to take in the sights, move around with an abundance of energy for the first time since arriving it seemed. We were all able to enjoy a beer or two and have a shower for the first time in an age, something I wouldn’t want to make a habit of. It was with sudden sadness that after taking one more corner Ama Dablam disappeared from view but the memories will remain and the photos to remind me of this majestic mountain and area.
With news of flights being delayed and Lukla airport filling up with travellers, we were all relieved to get on our flights just as the clouds were gathering and the queue at Starbucks was becoming unacceptable. All that was left was a couple of day’s downtime to relax, drink and buy gifts in the hustle and bustle of Kathmandu.
On reflection, any regrets I ask myself? It was a big decision to go. Escalating costs, time consuming, a few whatif's and doubts. No, absolutely none (unless a better immune system counts). These trips inspire, they become unforgettable, great memories, once in a lifetime ‘holidays’ (Well I hope not). Climbing mountains is not for everyone, but one can be in their environment to enjoy the beauty and feel the atmosphere. Trekking and climbing in the Himalayas has something for everyone who loves the outdoor world.
Namaste.
Note about our expedition leader, Tim Mosedale. From meeting up in Sam’s Bar, Kathmandu to saying farewell at the airport he was exceptional. I found him approachable, good humoured and organized. Everything was sorted, he was wealth of information, an expert in all fields (shame, as I would of liked to win occasionally at Connect4 and cards). I have no hesitation in recommending Tim if any of you are planning any trips to the Lakes or further a field. He currently runs Ama Dablam each year and is guiding Everest this year.
Sunday, 16 August 2009
Monday, 2 March 2009
Feb2009 Canada
Ice Climbing and Ski Touring from the Num Ti Jah Lodge (north of Lake Louise in Alberta, Canada) -- Feb 5th to Feb 15th 2009.
Places visited :
Sunshine - Skiing.
Finishing Hammer - Ice climb.
Mt Hector - ski mountaineering.
Bow Lake - aborted ice climb and lake walk.
Lady Wilsons Clevage - ice climb.
Polar Circus - ice climb.
Weeping Wall - ice climb.
Bow Summit - ski touring.
Banff, Mt Norgay - Skiing.
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